Barista, What Do You Know About Specialty Coffee From El Salvador?

The barista looked back when he heard the question. He greeted one of his regular patrons who enjoyed talking about coffee while enjoying a cup or two of freshly brewed coffee. So, said the barista, you want to know about El Salvador coffee, right? Well, first of all, I have to say they do produce some very fine coffee in that tiny country. 100% shade grown in coffee plantations dispersed throughout the country in very rich volcanic soils that add to the bean quality. Coffee cultivation is an art in El Salvador. Families go back many generations proudly looking after their coffee beans and plants.
The patron then asked: when did coffee cultivation start in El Salvador? The barista replied: before coffee, indigo was the main crop in the country growing at all altitudes. At first, coffee was cultivated for domestic use only early in the nineteenth century. By 1880, however, coffee had become virtually the sole Salvadoran export crop. Unlike Guatemala and Costa Rica, the Salvadoran coffee industry developed on its own in a very entrepreneurial way. Basically, the Salvadoran coffee industry did not receive external technical and financial help. Was this good, asked the patron? Yes, said the barista. This made Salvadoran coffee growers become one of the most efficient coffee producers in the world. Despite some government intervention over the years in the coffee trade practices, El Salvador remains at a very high level of coffee cultivation efficiency. The benefits of coffee production on Salvadoran society has been very important for road building, hospitals, community development, education, social services, ecological programs and much more.
What about the Indian populations in the rural areas during the coffee expansion? That's an interesting question, said the barista. You see, unlike most Central American countries, El Salvador 's Indian population integrated very well into the national economy. The country's infrastructure development put Salvadorans from all regions more directly in contact with one another and accelerated cultural assimilation. For example, in the late 1980's, El Salvador did not have an ethnically distinct Indian population. Throughout the colonial era and prior to the twentieth century, the native communities of Pipil and Lenca, located mainly in the western departments, accounted for about 60 per cent of the population. The development of coffee estates ended the communal lands of native villages and incorporated the Indians into the general cash economy. They became, in fact, peasants and wage laborers. By the late nineteenth century, their assimilation was essentially complete.
Does this mean the Indian cultures were lost forever, asked the patron? No, not really. Obviously, some loss in Indian heritage, language and custom took place which is very regrettable. However, Indian groups continue to maintain religious activities, distinctive women's dresses that are very colorful and beautiful, language, handicrafts, and other customs. The Pepil Indian group, for instance, has made a very effective push into the specialty coffee market through a large coffee cooperative they established for their sweet, nutty certified organic coffee branded "Café Pepil." The Indians have embraced the concept of cooperatives in order to strengthen their economic situations.
By focusing on specialty and gourmet coffees, Salvadoran coffee growers benefit from growing market niches that pay premium price for great coffee. Take for instance the Pacamara varietal. As a coffee aficionado, I find this to be a fascinating hybrid. It is superior in cup quality to either its parent varieties which is unusual. As a coffee drinker, the large Pacamara bean is very interesting to hold and observe. The Pacamara cup is soft and complex and the bean size is always a conversation topic.
Barista, thank you for the interesting information you shared today with me about El Salvador. You are right: there is a whole lot of learning and opportunities in every cup. Drinking coffee is a great activity. May I please have a cup of freshly brewed Salvador High Grown Organic coffee? Aaah! This is great coffee indeed.

Timothy ("Tim") S. Collins, the author, is called by those who know him "The Gourmet Coffee Guy." He is an expert in article writing who has done extensive research online and offline in his area of expertise, coffee marketing, as well as in other areas of personal and professional interest.